Beetle Fashion

How a Bug Brightens our Textiles

By Lindsey Johnson
Published: February 13th, 2011 | 1:55pm

I don’t know about the rest of you, but until recently I never really paid that much attention to how my clothes got their color. I like to think of myself as a fairly aware consumer, but recent happenings have forced me to resolve to either accept my obliviousness, or change it. I’m going with the latter.

On a trip to Peru, I learned that the brilliant red hue of traditional textiles is derived from the innards of a cacti-dwelling insect called the Cochineal. While as a former anthropology student I was conditioned years ago not to use the word “primitive”, I have to admit that a part of me felt relief that I must be learning about a strictly ancient technique.

Not quite. Apparently, production of this dye is starting to ramp up again as popular demand makes the full-circle from natural to artificial and back to natural, but the name of the dye, carmine (from carminic acid) doesn't hint well to its origins. Traditionally, the Cochineal beetle hangs out on a prickly pear cactus, feeding on the moisture and nutrients. When the beetle is crushed, the insides can be mixed with various natural additives (lime juice, herbs, etc.) to achieve different colors. And they are beautiful colors!

Today, synthetic dyes win over carmine when it comes to fabric. But you might find it in cosmetics and everyday edibles such as yogurt or fruit juice. The point is that now you’ll find it, and that wasn’t always the case. It is only recently (effective in January 2011) that the FDA decided, due to allergy complaints, to require specific labeling for the stuff. Now, if you look at the ingredients list for that Tarty Red lipstick, you might find “carmine” or “cochineal extract” listed, whereas before you’d have seen “coloring added”, or another vague description.

The addition of carmine in my favorite shampoo doesn’t really bother me; I’m more concerned with synthetic additives. If I go back to being a strict vegan, I’ll have to take a closer look at my beauty products, but for now that’s not the case. On the subject of fashion, I do have to say that clothing dyed using carmine is a rich, full color, not like the bright, shallow synthetic. Take a look at the picture below. The piece in the man’s right hand was dyed with carmine.

In any case, I’m happy to learn one small thing to combat obliviousness.